Ledaig 17 Years 2006/2024 - Gordon & MacPhail
The Ledaig 17 years 2006/2024 from Gordon & MacPhail is definitely not a whisky for everyone. Those who prefer harmonious, pleasing single malts should steer clear of it. This Scotch from the Isle of Mull is a statement whisky that does not hide its industrial origins from the Tobermory distillery - on the contrary, it celebrates them. With an alcohol strength of 56.5% and 17 years of maturation in sherry casks, it presents itself as an uncompromising character whisky that polarises.
Tasting Notes
Nose
The personality of this Ledaig is revealed from the very first nosing. A real sherry bomb explodes in the glass, but behind it lurks something unexpected: a clear sulphur note that immediately reminds you of old match heads. This is joined by overripe plums that are past their prime, followed by flavours reminiscent of old leather and a damp compost heap. That sounds off-putting at first, and to be honest, it is. This whisky smells "dirty" and "mouldy" - terms that do not normally have positive connotations. But this is precisely where the fascination lies: between all these earthy, almost disgusting notes, there are flashes of fresh strawberries and a very subtle smoke nestles against the composition like a campfire character.
Palate
The polarising profile continues on the palate. Sour cherries dominate the attack, accompanied by a mineral, earthy base note reminiscent of wet earth after a downpour. The sulphur is also present here, albeit more discreetly than on the nose. An interesting sweet and sour dynamic develops, supported by citrus notes reminiscent of pink grapefruit. The driftwood note that spreads across the mid-palate is particularly fascinating. It lends the whisky a maritime depth that perfectly matches its origin from the Isle of Mull.
Finish
The finish surprises with its length and unexpected sweetness. This is where 17 years of ageing shows its best side: mocha flavours merge with strong oak notes, while the smoke only resonates subtly in the background. Age has taken the edge off what was probably originally a smokier character and moulded it into a complex, warm finish.
Thoughts
Marcel 85/100
Anyone searching for a whisky with character and sharp edges will find true joy in the Ledaig 17 Years. This sherry bomb, combined with smoky, almost gritty wildness, delivers genuine drinking pleasure for adventurers unafraid of unusual flavors. A dramatic single malt that does more than just taste good – it tells stories.
Sascha 87/100
The Ledaig 17 Years 2006/2024 impresses with its complex structure and the balanced interplay between sherry cask influence and mineral depth. Despite the dominant sulfur notes, it maintains a remarkable balance between sweetness, smoke, and maritime influences, making it a demanding yet rewarding whisky for connoisseurs.
Value for Money: Good
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Frequently Asked Questions
Why does the Ledaig 17 Years 2006/2024 have such a pronounced sulfur note?
The sulfur note originates from the production methods at the Tobermory distillery, which is known for its characteristic, slightly sulfurous character. This arises from the specific stills used and the fermentation processes, giving the whisky its distinctive, polarizing personality.
How does the 17-year maturation in sherry casks influence the flavor of this Ledaig?
The 17 years spent in sherry casks bring out intense fruit notes like overripe plums and sour cherries, which, combined with oak and mocha aromas in the long finish, create a complex sweetness. At the same time, the extended maturation softens the whisky’s initial sharpness.
What role does the maritime origin from the Isle of Mull play in the flavor profile of the Ledaig 17 Years?
The location on the Isle of Mull shapes the whisky through salty and mineral notes as well as a driftwood character, which adds a maritime depth on the palate. These elements reflect the surroundings and complement the otherwise earthy and smoky aromas of the whisky.