Mortlach Midnight Dusk - Diageo Special Releases 2024
Let's forget the marketing blah-blah from Diageo for a moment - Mortlach is actually a damn good distillery. The unusual 2.81-fold distillation usually turns boring Speyside fare into complex, meaty whiskies. The "Beast of Dufftown" deserves respect. But with the Midnight Dusk, someone obviously forgot to pass this memo on.
Tasting Notes
Nose
Okay, hats off - Mortlach has played all the cards right here. A lot of spices hit you straight away, followed by a delicate hint of citrus and apricot, which really makes you want more. The density of flavours is impressive: toffee, milk chocolate and a hint of leather create complexity. Cappuccino joins in, and then - bang - black pepper, which smells suspiciously like Szechuan pepper. This is Speyside with eggs!
Palate
And then you take the first sip and think: "Wait a minute, that's it?" The oily texture is still okay, nougat tries to save what can be saved and the black pepper fights on bravely. A slight acidity brings some life into play, and if you're really imaginative, you might find a hint of fig.
Finish
Pleasant oak - nothing more, nothing less. Still spicy, medium length, baking cocoa and baking powder. Sounds solid? It is solid. But "solid" is not what you expect from a premium release.
Thoughts
Marcel 75/100
The Mortlach Midnight Dusk shows that even a 'Beast of Dufftown' can falter – the nose promises a lot, but the palate delivers only half-heartedly. For the price, I would have expected significantly more character and drinking pleasure; otherwise, it remains just a solid but interchangeable Speyside representative.
Sascha 79/100
Structurally, the Midnight Dusk is well-built, with clear spice and fruit notes, but the balance and complexity don’t reach the level one expects from a Special Release. The value for money simply isn’t justified here, as other bottlings offer considerably more depth and finesse.
Value for Money: No rating
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What does Mortlach's 2.81-times distillation mean, and how does it influence the flavor?
The 2.81-times distillation is a unique method used by Mortlach, where the whisky is distilled not just twice but almost three times. The result is a more complex, meaty character with greater depth and texture, setting it apart from typical Speyside whiskies.
Why does the Mortlach Midnight Dusk have less complexity on the palate despite an intense nose?
Although the nose impresses with spices, citrus, and toffee, the palate feels surprisingly restrained. The oily texture and some flavors like nougat and pepper are present, but it lacks the expected depth and development one anticipates from a premium release.
How does the high alcohol content of 57.5% ABV fit with the tasting experience of the Midnight Dusk?
At 57.5% ABV, the Midnight Dusk offers a powerful presence that particularly highlights the spicy and peppery notes. Yet, the texture remains more oily than sharp, and the alcohol supports the flavors without overpowering or burning.