Mortlach 25 Year Old Release 2023 - Gordon & MacPhail
Nose
First and foremost, the cherry rushes in, juicy and dark, followed by a whole potpourri of dried petals. It's like strolling through an old garden where berry bushes grow alongside gnarled plum trees. The raisins bring a sweet, almost meditative depth, while nutmeg and cinnamon join in like old friends, spreading warmth. Then, unexpectedly yet welcome, a cool breeze of spearmint swings through the aroma spectrum. It dances between the heavier notes, providing a refreshing balance. Walnut joins in, earthy and full, rounding off this olfactory masterpiece. One could spend hours discovering new nuances, for this nose is a book with many chapters.
Taste
Fruity sweetness spreads velvety smooth across the tongue before the spicy side of its character comes to the fore. Raisins dominate at first, dark and concentrated, followed by ripe plums reminiscent of winter compote. The texture is remarkable: creamy and at the same time lively and tingling, as if the whisky were breathing on the tongue. The walnut returns, this time more powerful, almost dominant, bringing with it a slightly dusty note reminiscent of old libraries or wood panelling. It is this complexity that challenges and rewards the palate at the same time.
Finish
A hint of old leather joins in, elegant and subtle, while baking cocoa provides a slightly bitter but pleasant note. The appearance of baking powder is surprising, with its slightly alkaline, almost powdery sensation, which gives the finish an unusual but fascinating dimension.
Thoughts
This Mortlach 25 Year Old is a well-rounded whisky in the best sense of the word. One could argue that it follows a classic sherry profile, but that would not do it justice. Yes, the typical characteristics are there: the dried fruit, the spice, the depth. But the way Gordon & MacPhail have orchestrated these elements is masterful. Extreme roundness and balance are not empty words here, but a tangible reality.